Story and Photos by Steven Anderson

There are over 700 islands and Cays, which make up the Bahamas.
We traveled from West Palm Beach by boat through the warm and crystal clear waters of the Gulf Stream with none of those islands or cays in sight. By daybreak we cleared customs in the Bahamas and our Tiger and Hammerhead Shark Expedition was underway.

We were aboard the Shearwater, a 65’ live aboard vessel, outfitted for diving and not so much luxury. The vessel is outfitted to accommodate 10 guests. Our leader is Jim Abernethy, a shark expert, explorer of the ocean and true conservationist. Jim has been diving around the world for 25 years, exploring the unknown world of sharks and other marine life. A group of 10 divers from different parts of the world, including myself, were guests of Jim’s at the location he considers home, “Tiger Beach”. Tiger Beach is located about 20 miles north of the West End of Grand Bahamas. It is not really a beach but a shallow sand bar. Tiger Beach is home to a few different species of sharks which include Lemon Sharks, Tiger Sharks, Reef Sharks and occasionally Great Hammerhead Sharks.

Day 2. After 6 1/2 hours crossing the Gulf Stream during the night, we cleared customs and ventured off to release 30 small Sea Turtles given to the Expedition for safe release by a local marine research facility. One by one the turtles were set free into the warm waters of the Bahamas, to hopefully survive and become part of the underwater world in which we enjoy as divers.

As we snorkeled, we were able to capture their release with our cameras, this experience was interesting and while watching the turtles swim away, I wondered if I would ever see them again. After the turtles were released we boarded the M/V Shearwater and enjoyed lunch, prepared for an extensive briefing about diving with sharks and the encounters we might experience throughout the week.

Jim is very thorough with the briefing and explains that his goal is to safely get each diver as close to his friends the sharks and getting the prizewinning shot. Each diver carries a 4’ PVC pipe for keeping sharks from coming too close and if you are a photographer your camera may serve as a tool of protection as well. The pipe is meant for helping them steer around your body. Some of the larger Tiger Sharks have even been known to take a diver’s camera and carry it off, until figuring out that the metal does not taste the same as fish. All divers are requested to point and make sure that the divers to the left and right acknowledge the Tigers when they are present. Some of them are a bit sneaky.  The Tiger Sharks seem to mysteriously appear from any and all angles and are just as curious as we are. The briefing took nearly 2 hours and was a good lesson on sharks.

Our first dive with sharks would be done in two groups. Diving at separate times allows for a more controlled dive. The first reef we dove was a favorite reef of Jim’s and the Shear Water crew called Ginormous. We soon figure out the reason for the name of the reef. As we descended upon the reef the yellowtails swarmed our presence and were mostly interested in the crates filled with fish scraps and carcasses. We encountered three species of sharks, 25 Reef, 1 Lemon and 3 Tiger Sharks by the end of the dive. The water was warm, clear and calm. The diving continued until dusk and the action we encountered was a warm up for the days to follow. After all of us returned to the boat, the M/V Shear Water traveled to a safe anchorage at the next days location “Tiger Beach”. Dinner was served and an early night was in order for the next days diving. There was lots of anticipation and excitement for the next days adventure.

Day 3, the coffee brewed early as the sun broke the horizon. The water was completely flat, the conditions were perfect and a few Lemon Sharks circled the stern investigating the slick created by the crates, which floated in the water throughout the night. The number of Lemon Sharks escalated and suddenly a large Tiger Shark appeared. The distinguished markings on the shark’s tail indicated the Shark was “Emma”. Emma is a 14’ Tiger, weighing approximately 4000 pounds. She circled the stern and made her presence known. Emma is as docile as your loving pet at home and a super model for the underwater photographer.

We entered the water and positioned ourselves on the bottom in 15’ of water in runway fashion. Although very curious, Emma was interested as to who her new guests were and she was sure to keep her distance. Lemon Sharks were everywhere and resembled fighter jets landing on a carrier.

Nose to the ground they followed the scents in the sand created by the crates. Eventually 6 more Tigers and a Reef Shark made their appearance then the real show began. We enjoyed the runway viewing and everyone was very cognizant of the shark’s presence. Flashes and the sound of shutters continued all day.  It was easy to tell who the boss was at Tiger Beach. It was Emma! The conditions were similar to those of a swimming pool. Most of us spent 90% of the day in the water enjoying the sharks and their behavior.

Dinner came quickly and we prepared for a night dive with Lemon Sharks. The flight patterns did not change from daytime to nighttime, soon Lemon Sharks of all sizes surrounded us and they were still very interested in the crates and not us as divers. Lights from the Shear Water illuminated the water and with the aid of personal lights we were able to observe the activity during the darkness underwater at Tiger Beach.

Day 4, the weather and water conditions were not as inviting as the day before but we were there for diving and diving we did. The first dive site of the day was a site called Crystal Tiger. Here we enjoyed diving with several Tiger Sharks and lots of Lemon Sharks before the weather worsened and the visibility dropped to unfavorable conditions. We moved to another location called Shark Tooth Ridge. The seas were still rough but we descended to 30’ and encountered several Reef Sharks and Lemon Sharks. After experiencing a thermo cline and dirty green water we ascended to 15’ from the surface and many of the sharks followed us to this depth, including a couple of small Tiger Sharks.

The conditions worsened and we made our way to Breaching Tiger Splashing Dragon. The rest of the afternoon was devoted to surface shots of Tiger Sharks chasing bait on a line. A few Tigers found interest in participating in the activity, before the darkness appeared. Dinner was served and another early night was in order

Day 5, the morning presented yet more bad weather and all 10 divers voted to dive during the morning in hopes of seeing more Tiger sharks as we kept our anchorage at Breaching Tiger Splashing Dragon. Minutes passed underwater and our hopes were fulfilled. A large female wild Tiger Shark approached and was very curious as to the contents of the crates and of us. She did many swim bys and even flybys between us, over us and behind us. We had a lot of food in the water, four more Tiger Sharks appeared and the action intensified. The action was great, the Tiger Sharks seemed fearless and they were determined to put on the show we had come for. These Tiger Sharks seemed to be wild ones and not accustom to divers and available food without hunting.

Eventually the visibility worsened due to the activity which was high voltage to watch and we returned to the M/V Shear Water, the weather continued to worsen and a unanimous decision was made to make an early return to Palm Beach and dive the protected reefs off West Palm Beach. The seas were rough and rain battered our vessel as we traveled back across the Gulf Stream, but after 6 ½ hours we were in sight of land and the seas much calmer. We spent the evening on the M/V Shear Water and would not clear customs until day break the next day.

Our final day came early and we cleared customs quickly as to not miss optimum diving time. Our first dive of the morning would be under the Blue Heron Bridge at Phil Foster State Park. The Blue Heron Bridge is North America’s muck diving capital. Eagle Rays passed, Frogfish and many more unusual creatures that are normally found here with a good eye. As the tide changed it was time that we venture out to the reefs of Palm Beach, Florida.

Our second dive after lunch was Breaker’s Reef. Breaker’s Reef is currently being threatened by dredging for beach sand for expensive beachfront homes and resorts. Marine biologists claim that the construction has no effect but long time abuse by dredging does have an effect on the reefs. Diving on the Breakers Reef was spectacular. Sponges and lots of soft corals of all colors filter the reef. The reef was teaming with lots life and healthy coral. We enjoyed the first site so much that we decided to remain at the same location for our 3rd dive of the day and we dove the “Turtle Mound” as well as Breakers Reef.

As the sun set, we completed our last day of diving as well as the Tiger Shark Expedition, the M/V Shear Water circled to pick us up.

As I reflect back on our expedition, I have a new understanding regarding the world of sharks and the need for protection of sharks that have always been regarded as killers. We must protect them, they are important to the life cycle and food chain of the ocean.  The expedition to Tiger Beach was exciting and I suggest every diver make a visit there. I was able to get as humanly close to these amazing creatures without incident. Never was there a threat, observing and interacting with the sharks as we did brought a humbling sense to my mind. Many divers know Tiger Beach, but if you as a diver don’t make it there you might not have the understanding of these apex predators, the life they live and their importance to the environment and our every day life. A week at the beach was so much more than the adventure I had hoped for!

A special thanks to Jim Abernethy and all of his staff at Scuba Adventures in West Palm Beach, Florida for the incredible experience.